Rectangle body shape with cool, clear skin tones (True Winter)

The one thing to buy

Structured blazers in white. The cut comes from the rectangle rules, which put a structured blazer +24 ahead of a neutral garment; the colour comes from the True Winter palette, where white sits ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF. Structure at the shoulder builds the V-taper a straight frame does not have naturally.

The colour matters here more than it usually would. A structured blazer is worn near the face, so it is one of the pieces where a palette miss reads as tiredness rather than as a colour you happen to be wearing. White sits ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF in the True Winter palette.

What to buy, and in what colour

A clean shoulder, a skimmed waist, and a clean leg line. That sentence is the shape half of the answer; the colour beside each garment is the other half. They are not applied evenly: 2 of the 3 garments the rules want for a rectangle are worn near the face, where a True Winter palette miss shows on the person, and the rest sit below the waist where it shows only on the garment.

• Structured blazers (+24), near the face: in white, ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF. Structure at the shoulder builds the V-taper a straight frame does not have naturally.
• Boxy jackets (+10), near the face: in white, ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF. Layers add the depth and shape a rectangular frame reads flat without.
• Tapered trousers (+7), below the waist: in white, ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF. A tapered leg narrows the bottom line and makes the upper body read broader by comparison.

The True Winter colours worth building on

Purely cool and clear. Sharp, saturated colour against icy neutrals. 4 of the twenty-four colours an ordinary shop names land inside the palette, and Mustard is the furthest out at ΔE 34.1. For a rectangle these are the colours to find the 2 near-face pieces above in; white is the neutral to build the rest of the wardrobe from.

• White (#FAFAFA): ΔE 1.0 from #FFFFFF.
• Black (#111111): ΔE 3.0 from #000000.
• Cobalt blue (#0047AB): ΔE 3.2 from #1E4ABC.
• Charcoal (#36393D): ΔE 4.8 from #2E3440.

Where the two disagree

They can, and the order matters when they do. Shape is geometry: a cut that adds width at the widest point does it whatever colour it is. Colour is a claim about a face at a distance, and it only binds on the pieces worn near one.

On this pairing it arises 2 times. A structured blazer and a boxy jacket are worn near the face, so the palette binds there in a way it does not across the rest of what a rectangle should be buying. Hold out for it: True Winter gives you 4 colours that clear the bar, which is enough to find the cut you want in one of them.