Rectangle body shape with deep, cool skin tones (Deep Winter)

The one thing to buy

Structured blazers in white. The cut comes from the rectangle rules, which put a structured blazer +24 ahead of a neutral garment; the colour comes from the Deep Winter palette, where white sits ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0. Structure at the shoulder builds the V-taper a straight frame does not have naturally.

The colour matters here more than it usually would. A structured blazer is worn near the face, so it is one of the pieces where a palette miss reads as tiredness rather than as a colour you happen to be wearing. White sits ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0 in the Deep Winter palette.

What to buy, and in what colour

A clean shoulder, a skimmed waist, and a clean leg line. That sentence is the shape half of the answer; the colour beside each garment is the other half. They are not applied evenly: 2 of the 3 garments the rules want for a rectangle are worn near the face, where a Deep Winter palette miss shows on the person, and the rest sit below the waist where it shows only on the garment.

• Structured blazers (+24), near the face: in white, ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0. Structure at the shoulder builds the V-taper a straight frame does not have naturally.
• Boxy jackets (+10), near the face: in white, ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0. Layers add the depth and shape a rectangular frame reads flat without.
• Tapered trousers (+7), below the waist: in white, ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0. A tapered leg narrows the bottom line and makes the upper body read broader by comparison.

The Deep Winter colours worth building on

Cool and deep, with high contrast. True black works, and so does icy white. 4 of the twenty-four colours an ordinary shop names land inside the palette, and Mustard is the furthest out at ΔE 32.1. For a rectangle these are the colours to find the 2 near-face pieces above in; white is the neutral to build the rest of the wardrobe from.

• White (#FAFAFA): ΔE 2.0 from #F2F2F0.
• Black (#111111): ΔE 3.0 from #000000.
• Navy (#1B2A4A): ΔE 3.1 from #16213E.
• Charcoal (#36393D): ΔE 3.3 from #3E4148.

Where the two disagree

They can, and the order matters when they do. Shape is geometry: a cut that adds width at the widest point does it whatever colour it is. Colour is a claim about a face at a distance, and it only binds on the pieces worn near one.

On this pairing it arises 2 times. A structured blazer and a boxy jacket are worn near the face, so the palette binds there in a way it does not across the rest of what a rectangle should be buying. Hold out for it: Deep Winter gives you 4 colours that clear the bar, which is enough to find the cut you want in one of them.